Completed this loop South - North May 26-29. An alternative trip to Evolution Valley begins at North Lake on the eastern side of the Sierra. Free parkinggotta love that! But the Reader Leader contest was all it took to get me planning again. My inner dialogues attitude was quickly adjusted when I looked back from whence we cameMt. Definitely a moderate hike, but doable in 4 days. At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. Beautiful and challenging in a good way. No rain. It was challenging knowing exactly where to cross, we tried to find a place that looked shallow enough, however the water came up above my hips (Im 52) which was pretty scary because the current moved me quite a bit and the water was freezing! They were hustling right along. 7/19/2014 - 17.03 miles, 2,992 AEG - Piute Bridge to Evolution Creek The day started with a six mile roundtrip hike to Muir Trail Ranch to obtain our resupply. best of luck and make sure you are prepared. This will bring you onto the PCT north of Evolution Valley, a distance of about 16 miles. Golden trout present. All in all, it had been another great day in the High Sierra. Very exciting. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. My wife and I did the trek in June with our 9 month old in tow. Privacy Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. We returned to camp and reorganized and then started the hike into Evolution Valley. It was cloudy for much of the way, but it only rained briefly. My understanding is that dogs are not allowed in the Kings Canyon National Park. . The final day we packed out. I decided to stop for lunch a short ways ahead, and hung out in the shade next to the water with a couple of PCT hikers that Id spoken to earlier. Now I can say, beeen there in a sing-song tone suggesting my best time ever in the land of granite. Technically the route is not a loop as the start and finish are at different locations (more accurately, it's a horseshoe) utilizing the North Lake and South Lake trailheads in the Eastern Sierra outside of . When we finished our descent and arrived at the ranger station in the deep forest of Le Conte Canyon we also reached the junction on which the trail merges with the Pacific Crest Trail(PCT)/ John Muir Trail. Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). The traditional route goes over Piute Pass and down through Humphreys Basin, taking a long time before turning the corner and climbing up to Evolution Valley. Finally it is accepted as self-evident." Schoepenhouer "Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time he will pick himself up and continue on." Winston Churchill "When they think they know the answers, people are . We did 7 nights, 8 days with our first and last days being half days. First it is ridiculed. I would head up the trail. I never made it that deep into the backcountry that summer. As a backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just as well. Campsite 3: Colby Meadow. Ranger Station: McClure Meadow. . That night we enjoyed a campfire in Aspen Meadow since we were below 10,000 feet and there were already the makings for a fire ready to go! 5 trip report day 12-16: Muir Trail Ranch to Onion Valley Trailhead. But 6-year-old Gregory "was an absolute trooper," said Steward, as . slightly uphill or slightly downhill, varying. Front Runners List: Click to see list completion progress by climbers that log their climbs using Peakbagger.com. The trail on the left leads to Lower Honeymoon Lake. however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. Hike down 6.6 miles to LeConte Canyon, which is a very beautiful, deep canyon with lush meadows and forests. Oh ya, chill and take your time. We decided to put in stakes about a mile and a half before Piute Pass on what I considered to be the Best in Show campsite winner. I jumped up and pumped them for information. I recommend taking the ferry to avoid the lake hike; the view doesn't much change, and there's a lot of clutter around the lake campsites that take away from it. GoPro video as I forded Evolution Creek, just north of Evolution Meadow. I recommend an early start because of the exposure in the first 3 miles of Piute Trail. . It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. At least there might be shade along this section, I thought to myself. That felt great! This trail is great for backpacking, birding, and camping, and it's unlikely you'll encounter many other people while exploring. The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. Id get my chance eventually. We hiked up to Piute Creek the first day it was 13.1 miles since the ferry was not running on our hike up. To win Best in Show our site sported a ledge, floating above a yakkety brook, Mt. Bishop Pass Trail to John Muir Trail to Piute Trail. North Lake to Hutchinson Meadow is very straightforward. However, on the way back from Forsyth, I had some time to think about it while dealing with trail miles.On paper, 55 miles with 10k vertical in 12h15 looks soft; Yours Truly ran 50 miles with 12k vertical in about 9 hours at San Juan Solstice, and the . The best sites we found are located on the east side of the trail directly after we crossed the stream that feeds the lake. Tiny bit of snow on bishop pass was completely avoidable. 34.3 mi Distance 17 hrs 56 min Time terrain 4,821 ft Elev Gain Overview This is a difficult loop trail in Inyo National Forest. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). contour 80 feet UTM zone 11 Customers Like You Also Purchased USA Highways Wall Map $10.95 Custom Radius Maps $175.00 Island Visions $39.99 Rides of a Lifetime: Southwest by MAD Maps $16.95 The trail is quite rocky in most places so slower than you might expect given the elevation profile. I sucked the last of my water from the hose and hiked on, filled with new energy. The trail includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Creek - often an exciting wade during the spring run-off - and three . Required fields are marked *. No water issues at all--everything is flowing well. 4 days 3 nights 2 passes had a great time. Well worth every step! The fourth day we packed back to the Florence lake JMT trail junction. Ascending Muir Pass from south to north was incredible. Or bag flattopped Mt. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. Once over Bishop Pass, we descended down approximately 5-6 miles to South Lake where we ended our journey. It was great to get back and do another hike in the High Sierra. Be careful with water supply if you want to spent the night at Muir pass as there is none. Bears are not much of a problem along this stretch of the John Muir Trail. It all worked out in the end, however. Such a memorable backpacking trip! Tehipite Valley Trail: Begins at Wishon Reservoir. The creek crossing there can be challenging early in the season. for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. I was OK with this, as its hard to tell distance when youre hiking fast downhill, as it feels so much different heading the other way. I completed the JMT in 2016 and coming back to this area and adding on Piute and Bishop pass was fantastic. kelly e. No matter how heavy my pack is I always leave room for some whiskey. Elevation gain: 2200 feet It tasted cold and fresh. One time, we found beers in the Muir Hut with a note 'Take only one'. My two recommendations. Mather Pass . Day 4: Rest and explore. Tough climb over the pass at 11,423 and descended into Paiute Canyon where we connected up with the JMT. Nineteen miles from the nearest trailhead, Evolution Valley is a two-day hike for most backpackers. At Piute Pass, we headed off trail toward Muriel Lake, then Alpine Col, which takes the hiker to the gorgeous Darwin Lakes and Darwin Bench area. The long circuitous way, but entirely on trails, from this trailhead goes over Piute Pass (11,423 ft.) descends through Humphrey Basin along Piute Creek to the John Muir Trail (at 8,000 ft.). Then climbs through Evolution Meadow and Evolution Valley to reach Evolution Lake; 4,850 ft. of climb, 3,400 ft. of descent in 28 miles. So prepare rain And wind covering if comfort is a must. Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. Not only that, but the trail was going to head even lower as I followed the river downstream. may have been made. Actually now that we've gone to North to South, I'd hope to go the opposite direction someday, as the ascent to Muir Pass via LeConte Canyon would be thrilling. We are here: Evolution Basin Total Mileage: ~57 miles Total Elevation Loss/Gain: ~9,500 feet (a few hundred feet more gain than loss) Length: 6 days Trailhead: We started at North Lake at Piute Trailhead (~9,400 feet) Mountain Passes: Piute, Muir and Bishop Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California. Jackass Meadow and Ward Lake campgrounds are located near Florence Lake. Their answers were vague, as expected, but they did say that there was definitely a spot a decent ways up the trail, but they werent great judges of distance. Challenging but absolutely worth it, forever in my memories. 2 trip report day 0-4: getting in & Yosemite National Park warm up. That was about 8 miles, we had wanted to camp at the meadow but was beat so made camp a couple miles sooner. classic Sierra beauty from the very start. The Best backpacking hike ever! The trail is popular with day hikers and backpackers on multi-day trips to Humphreys Basin, Evolution Valley and beyond. The lake is 53 miles east of Prather. To become a member of the SPS, one must be a Sierra Club member and have climbed at least six peaks on the SPS List; it is not necessary that the peaks be Emblem peaks. Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet 4 trip report day 8-12: Red's Meadow Resort to Muir Trail Ranch. The contradiction lies in the amount of water all around. Starting at the North Lake TH, we will cross Piute Pass (11,423'). Thousands upon thousands of happy people enjoying the wilderness. I left the trail to follow right along the creek, and took way too many photos and videos. I would love to do it sometime, so thank you for the inspiration. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. Now, an 81-year old. I could see both up and down the canyon, and there was no shortage of glaciated granite in evidence. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that may have been made. The map showed that it eventually merged into the South Fork San Joaquin River somewhere out of sight of the trail. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time, and eventually camped along Piute Creek. Spectacular scenery abounds, with tumbling waterfalls, flowing creeks, glittering lakes, stately forests, and imposing mountains galore. Piute Creek Crosing: Bridge at Piute Creek Crossing: Layers: Western juniper, and its cones: The views along the way make up for it. This is a beautiful post. Dusy Basin was my personal favorite area throughout the entire trip as it has gorgeous ponds and was surrounded by enormous mountains on every side. amazing. The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. The river is nice to camp by here. Our camps were very high, all above 11,300', and we took two and a half days layover, hiking and exploring . I've done this trail 4 times and it is amasing. We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. What a reward after the long hike up the mountainThanks. Some hikers like to stop for a soak at the public hot springs across the river, just beyond the Muir Trail Ranch. They were having a seriously fun time on a hot Summers Day. I had descended 2500 feet and climbed another 1000 feet to get up here. 3 trip report day 5-8: Lyell Canyon/Tuolumne Meadows to Red's Meadow Resort. It is a hard one but worth it. Day four Rest and explore. The total distance to Evolution Lake is about 10 miles. On our way back down we hike about 13 miles and set up camp for the last night. Our simple food choices were holding very well. The Section maintains historic summit registers at Bancroft Library on the University of California, Berkeley campus.. At night, Id comb through maps by headlamp, creating my ultimate ticklist for the parks. Usually we did it in 7 days. I also crossed Evolution creek at the alternate, which was swampy but looked much easier than the main crossing. The JMT headed off to the west before switchbacking its way down to the valley floor (700 feet of descent) while the creek simply dropped straight down over the side of the canyon. Glaciated dome on the canyon side, with Turret Creek (which was dry) on the left, The Piute Pass Trail finally got closer to Piute Creek and I began to seriously look for a campsite, now that I had water, My tent and campsite alongside Piute Creek I wanted to lie down but I still had chores to do, View from my campsite, at 9000 feet elevation, looking downstream. After lunch was finished, I reluctantly put on my pack and continued hiking in the roasting sun. The metal bridge over Piute Creek marks the border between Kings Canyon National Park and the John Muir Wilderness. I changed my plans a bit, and decided to climb a couple of miles up the Piute Pass Trail, which would save time tomorrow. That was a big mistake. Day 2: In the morning, we broke camp early and switch-backed up to Bishop Pass. Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. Our total hiking miles over 5 days was 41.8 miles then we caught the ferry for the extra couple. Turn left and descend to Upper Lamarck Lake. She was seriously considering it. I didnt see anyone moving this time. There wasnt going to be much of a sunset from down in the canyon, so I went to bed early. meadows, granite peaks, off-trail accessibility, water plentiful. Evolution Lake has lots of excellent campsites. Camp at Wanda! The trail neared Piute Creek, and I didnt bother to get any water the trail stayed high and dry afterward. On our way back we crossed even more upstream, and thank goodness we did, because it was a lot shallower there (water came up right below my hips) which made it much easier to cross. No smoke from the California wildfires. On the way back, check out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical! At the top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I fell in love with the name. It was a very long day. It was high noon, I realized, and there wasnt any shade at all on the trail with the sun beaming straight down between the trees. Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux But you could put together a much more worthwhile tour with more like 7 days. They are past the Muir Trail Ranch. Highly recommend spending time in McClure Meadow if possible on this hike. Then we stayed there 1 night then hiked up to evolution valley. Depending on your fitness level, you can get to the valley in a day, and choose to go farther to Evolution Lake. We hiked it in 7 days but could have done in 6. The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. There were only 2-3 times where I needed to use my AllTrails app to figure out the correct way to continue. Is there some exception for Evolution Valley? It was also one of the last areas explored by early park pioneers. The trail starts at North Lake (9,276'), soon enters the John Muir Wilderness, and ascends to Piute Pass (11,423') in four steep miles. We had it easy in September, but Ive heard that earlier in the season hikers should be prepared for more difficult fordings. Those first four and last four miles are always the hottest. Aside from stellar views, you will also find a station in McClure Meadow that is manned in the summer months by a ranger. The Florence Lake Store carries basic food and camping supplies. Slept like a drunken sailor. We camped up there on our second night. Pick up the trail on the eastern edge of Upper Lamarck Lake. Its about half way down Dusy basin. I needed both water and a flat spot. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. beautiful. Along the way I came across the Muir Rock which I had seen on the topo map. Switchbacks up were very nice. It often has waterfalls cascading from its outlet because of the abrupt drop off. Me either, until we exited the forest at about 11,000 feet and monster granite views appeared. But it was still too hot for climbing, I told myself. When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. My mood was improving by the minute! Next came McClure Meadow and the Ranger Station. this trail is definitly one of the top 5 trails in sierras. Maybe if I waited a bit the sun would be at a lower angle as I headed north, so that the trees would have longer shadows for me to rest in. I took a break on the edge of the meadow and got out my map. Started at North Lake Trailhead and ended at South Lake. Lots of camping spots with water so you can make your day as long or short as you like. When I walk through this area again, perhaps I will do the same so I can see it from another perspective. Conditions are continuously changing and wilderness hikers need to plan for inclement weather. Beautiful trip! lots of water sources so no worries there but u must have enough water to go by as you will drink alot. Edit Last Edited by tomripley30 Sights to See North Lake Campground Stock Camp Summit Lake Purchase tickets in the store. I was definitely overheating, and simply wanted to take a long rest. Ouch! This was an absolute must do trail! Elevation 4400 feet I loved seeing the pictures here as it helped me to realize how much more I need to get there. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. Just as I was pondering what to do, a couple came down the trail! $4,395: August 13-21. The Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. Follow it 2.1 miles back to the trailhead. We had heard that you could maybe get an employee of Parcher's Resort to give you a lift to the North Lake Trailhead -- they are located a mile down the road from the South Lake Trailhead. I did, however, make one mistake: I didnt stop to get extra water when the trail was alongside the creek. The ferry is worth it if its running. There are several decent camping spots in the meadow and they are all next to heavy-flowing Piute Creek. I have to say, however, that descending into Le Conte Canyon from Dusy Basin, and not the other way around, seemed like the more fortunate direction for my legs and backside. This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. Then I continued north. Its not an extremely hard hike; most of it is pretty gradual and flat in the meadows, but there are two sections of switchbacks: heading up into evolution valley and heading up to evolution lake, but they werent too bad. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. Membership. Piute Pass actually puts you into the upper reaches of the San Joaquin River Basin (So. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. One downside though: it's freaking hard. Highly recommend bringing a bug net to wear if you think you will encounter them. Speaking of water, we regularly forded streams ranging from little hip-hop creeks to put-on-your-water-shoes-and-unbuckle-your-pack soakers! We found the trailhead about 1/3 mile away and hiked a few miles to Loch Leven. On day 4 we headed east along Piute Canyon toward lovely Humphreys Basin, a timeless spot overlooking the Glacier Divide to which we have returned again and again. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. The SteriPen uses UV light to kill the germs. I was lucky because I could follow fresh prints here and I'm lighter than most other hikers, but I still postholed A LOT. Did this in the opposite direction (South Lake to North Lake) and had a blast. For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. Yay! Stargazing out in the Evolution Valley should be on everyone's bucket list. This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. You can learn more about her travels with her husband, Mitch, on CruisingSailors.com. I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. Of course, the unforgettable moments started to pile up as we descended into Evolution Basin and then officially into the hanging valley of Evolution. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that Id have the trail to myself for a while. Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. I am now a retired academic, so I was able, in all three trips, to exploit my college timing to hike in early September before the start of classes. Several of our trails give entry to the John Muir Trail or Pacific Crest Trail with the opportunity to trek in the longest roadless section of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. Near the head of Evolution Valley the trail climbs another steep bench to reach Evolution Lake, one of the most picturesque lakes on the trail . Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. FIND YOUR WAY OUTSIDE is a trademark of AllTrails, LLC. After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. Completed 14-17AUG. Pick up permit, eat at Burger Barn, head to, Day One Piute Pass trailhead over Piute Pass down through Humphreys Basin to, Day Two Hutchinson Meadow down Piute Creek to the JMT junction down along the San Joaquin River to the, Day Three Goddard Canyon Bridge Junction Up to Evolution Valley then into Evolution Basin and camp at, Day Four Sapphire Lake up to Wanda Lake then summit Muir Pass then down into Le Conte Canyon and camp at, Day Six Up over Bishop Pass and down to South Lake . It follows the south fork of the San Joaquin and Evolution Creek nearly all the way. More like a river. Those who use the SteriPen, or any other filter system, are wise to carry a backup such as Potable Aqua Water Treatment Tablets. Layover at Sapphire Lake while weather passed. Slept like a drunken sailor. We did encounter several groups of happy campers who had spent the previous night at some of these lakes. I was overjoyed, and felt a million times better. We camped alone; in fact, we camped alone every night of the trip. A mother deer plus two babies. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. Day 4: Today turned out to be a truly cushy one. By heading upstream on a use-trail for a quarter mile to a meadow, you will find a shallower ford. I climbed upward for two miles without seeing a single decent campsite, either. Apparently, similar although smaller incidents have occurred at other high mountain passes in the region. Use my AllTrails app to figure out the correct way to continue no shortage of glaciated granite in.. Trek in June with our first and last days being half days month old in tow their climbs using.... And ended at South Lake where we ended our piute pass to evolution valley there in sing-song. 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